Monday, 12 February 2018





Scottish Schools and Universities 
1872-1913 ; and some current issues.



Iain Smith



Introduction
This may contribute something to an understanding of educational opportunity and sometimes the lack of it in late 19th and early 20th century Scotland.  The growth of secondary schooling and of university access set trends that were to continue for many subsequent decades.

These trends have been well-researched. But that research perhaps was not always expressed in a narrative that was easy to follow.
In this modest piece, I have made some simplifications and probably some errors of detail. For the latter I apologise.



The baseline
Back in the 1870s and even later, many Scots faced barriers to university access:-
  1. One had to be male: university graduation for females did not begin until about 1892. 
  2. One generally although not always had to have a school which was teaching to university entrance standards: many areas had no such schools. This is a complex issue. Mid-19th century Scottish universities ran open entrance systems that were not unlike modern-day US community colleges; and that were no less controversial. By 1900, this form of university entry was defunct.
  3. One had to stay on in education beyond the age of 13: and forego the wages available to teenagers, notably in the flourishing Scottish industries and agricultural and fishing enterprises of the time. This is what economists call “opportunity costs”. See RD Anderson on this[1]. The concept applies today only to those parts of the UK – and there are some, although not many- where there is a full-time employment market for unskilled 16+ yr-olds.
  4. One had to pay university tuition fees; and, for students from rural areas, the additional costs of travel to and lodgings in one the four[2] Scottish cities which housed universities.
The years following the 1872 Education Act in Scotland saw elementary i.e. primary schooling reasonably well established across Scotland, certainly once it became free -in 1890. Problems of truancy initially high were largely solved.
Attention from about 1885 onwards increasingly came to focus on what we now call “secondary education”[3]. This was in part fuelled by the Scotch (sic) Education Department (SED)’s foundation in 1888 of the Higher Leaving Certificate -which quickly became, as it largely remains today, the major benchmark for university entrance. There was considerable agreement that post-elementary “higher” education should be expanded, especially for able but poor students; but great controversy as to how[4].

In a complex debate, the central choice was between
·         the School Boards developing their own “higher grade” and eventually zero fee provision, albeit with the SED having a regulatory function as to how and where government grant was to be spent ; and
·          the existing secondary provision of fee-charging “endowed schools” and “higher schools” - e.g. Kelvinside Academy, the High School of Edinburgh, Inverness Royal Academy, Aberdeen Grammar School, Perth Academy, which were mostly independent of the Boards - receiving SED grant to expand their provision. [5]
After an important digression we shall return to that unfolding story.

Pupil Teachers
Scottish universities became increasingly rigorous in their entrance standards in the latter part of the 19th century and it was to be some years before these standards could be met by school study in much of Scotland. However some school students, always males prior to 1892, used the pupil teacher scheme as an alternative route to university entrance and indeed university graduation.

The pupil teacher system was a teacher apprenticeship scheme of 19th century Scotland and England: it consistently in the late 19th century gave some elementary school students i) a moderately financially secure route to a teacher training college i.e. “normal college” in 19th century jargon, and to teacher certification; or ii) even directly to teacher certification. For able pupil teachers - with good teachers as their school based mentors- certification as a teacher could be achieved by sitting the relevant exams, even without going to a teacher training college. 
i)                    One served post -13 a 5-year apprenticeship as a pupil teacher in one’s elementary school, followed by 2 years at a “normal college” in Glasgow (at what is now the University of Strathclyde School of Education) or in Edinburgh (at what is now the University of Edinburgh Moray House School of Education) or in Aberdeen (at what is now the University of Aberdeen School of Education); and thus became a certificated teacher. The “normal college” courses were supplemented, increasingly over the years, with study of university subjects; and some pupil teachers used this as a bridge to becoming university graduates.
ii)                  Or one served a 5-year apprenticeship as a pupil teacher in a school and at some point, under tutelage of a headteacher, took as an external candidate the certificate examination - without prior attendance - at Edinburgh, Glasgow or Aberdeen.[6] 
iii)                Or one could simply remain as an uncertificated teacher, a category sometimes described as “assistant teacher” and sometimes as “ex-pupil teacher”[7].

We know that in 1905 Scotland had 15,000 teachers: about 8000, some of them university graduates, were in the first category; about 4000 were in the second category; and about 3000 were in the last category.[8] And the last 3000 were disproportionately in rural Scotland. By 1906, the whole teacher training system was in the midst of a radical reform, including the abolition of the role of pupil teacher. [9]
Higher Grade Schools
We can now return to the issue of “higher grade” schools. In the first instance they were not in receipt of government grant and the school parish boards were not supposed to spend rates on them. Probably on the arguments we have read because the idea of raising taxes and rates, in part measure often from the comparatively poor, and then to spend the proceeds often on the offspring of the comparatively well-off was regarded, to use a bit of contemporary economic jargon, as fiscally and socially “regressive”. That argument today is at the heart of different approaches within the UK to the question of who pays university tuition fees.

 But at least, in contrast to the situation in England, such schools were legal and began to be created. Then

In 1892, the first state grants for secondary education appeared (10 years earlier than in England) and were used to build up schools in smaller towns as well as to strengthen existing ones……. They formed an effective national network able to prepare both for the universities and for business careers.[10]

This was a new annual grant of £60,000 to promote secondary education[11]. That is over £7m per year at today’s prices. After much debate, it had been agreed that it should generally be administered by county committees on which Board members, county councillors and HM Inspectorate served.

This was partly, as we have noted, fuelled by the SED’s foundation in 1888 of the Higher Leaving Certificate. There was considerable agreement that post-elementary “higher” education should be expanded; but, as we have also noted, controversy as to how[12]. Some school boards were particularly active in creating new “higher grade” schools. On the other hand, hitherto independent and pre-existing “endowment schools”  and “higher class schools” also received SED grant to expand their provision; for some of them e.g. Edinburgh Royal High School, Inverness Royal Academy, Perth Academy and Paisley Grammar School it was the beginning of a path that led to them today being simply part of public sector schooling.

While both these things happened and while the controversy in some senses dragged on as far as the 1970s, in essence it was the Board creation of “higher grade” schools that came to dominate the system of public sector secondary schooling.

Govan Parish School Board[13] was particularly prominent and proactive in this with the foundation of no less than five “higher grade” schools: Hillhead High School founded 1885 in Cecil St and Hyndland School founded 1887, initially in Partick are still-functioning memorials to that.  To this day 'GOVAN PARISH SCHOOL BOARD' is emblazoned on their surviving 19th and early 20th century buildings in large red sandstone letters. But even Govan encountered opposition because of a nearby independent “higher school” Kelvinside Academy and, where areas had several such pre-existing “higher schools” e.g. Glasgow and especially Edinburgh, progress was slower and mired in controversy. It took Edinburgh until 1902 to develop its first “higher grade” schools.
In Stornoway in 1898 for the first time school students from a local “higher grade” school, the Nicolson Institute, went direct to university.  Portree High School and Kirkwall Grammar School students began to do the same only a few years later. Across Scotland, even in remote rural areas, some barriers to university access were coming down.

But formidable barriers of socio-economic status and gender remained.  Dina Macleod, leaving her “higher grade” school in 1895 with an impeccable school record, had to settle for a sub-degree LLA, the delightfully titled “Lady Literate in Arts” qualification: Scottish universities began to admit women undergraduates to degree courses only in 1892, and initially the numbers were small.

Success in secondary school provision across Scotland had put financial pressure on government: for elementary students progressing to secondary schooling attracted a high government grant for the parish School Boards. So JL Robertson HMCI and the Scotch Education Department in the 1900s insisted that 13/14-yr-old school students in elementary schools passed a newly established “qualifying exam” to access the secondary education provision: this was an institution which blighted the lives of many of us until well into the 1960s. It also blighted what we call today the Primary 7 curriculum.

We know from a variety of historical sources -some national, some local- that student grants and bursaries to meet the costs of secondary schooling and of university education became increasingly common from the last few years of the 19th century onwards; they had existed, but were uncommon, before then.
For school students to enter the newly founded Leaving Certificate, explicit SED authority was required, not least because such students attracted a higher level of grant. As we have noted, the Leaving Certificate had been founded in 1888; but was only opened up to “higher grade” Board schools in 1892.[14]

“Highers” in the Leaving Certificate were quickly accepted for entrance purposes by universities and “Lowers” by certain professions e.g. as an entry to banking. The category of “Higher” lasts to this day, largely unchanged - and was a considerable advance.  The category of “Lower” was abandoned in 1962, to be transformed into Ordinary Grade a success story[15], then into Standard Grade, and now into National qualifications.

The third category of “Honours” was quickly abandoned. An intended 1888 function had been similar to one in 1998 for the “Advanced Higher” i.e. to give accelerated or “fast track” entry to specialist university study. This intent of the late 19th century was as unrealised as that of the late 20th century.
A Scot, one Andrew Carnegie, also made a very decisive intervention in 1901.  One can think of Carnegie as a 19th century Donald Trump.  Although he has a better claim than Trump to Scottish ancestry and at least in his later years in Scotland, if not in his younger years in Pittsburgh a more secure record in philanthropy.

Andrew Carnegie
In 1901, Carnegie decided he would give about $5m to Scottish universities (at today's prices possibly about a quarter billion US dollars, although these conversions are tricky). But, never himself having been near a university, he took some advice and decided it should go into a trust which might be expected to generate a spending power of about £50,000 a year to pay tuition fees for poor students. £50,000 per year was about what the state then spent annually on Scottish universities and is over £2.5m a year at today’s prices. Scottish university principals a largely unchanged breed to this day, were unimpressed: the money would in essence go to students rather than to them. So Carnegie doubled his investment; and gave the annual investment income from the “new” half to universities for capital build – for example much of the still-standing science build in the early 20th century in the University of Glasgow and the magnificent organ in its Bute Hall came from Carnegie.[16]
The Carnegie Trust itself today says:-

To put this in context, it should be stressed that, contrary to what is suggested, access to university education in Scotland has not always been free. On the contrary, fees were charged by the universities (originally by the professors directly) which represented a significant barrier to access, and there was no provision for subsistence. There was hot competition for the small number of available bursaries, and the award of a bursary was, within living memory, the occasion of a school holiday. It is precisely because student fees constituted such a serious barrier to entry for the ‘qualified and deserving’ that Carnegie was first persuaded to consider this endowment.[17]

By 1904, half of all Scottish university undergraduates were benefitting from the Carnegie endowment.[18] An excellent summary of the effect can be found in another Anderson publication.[19] So, in the early 20th century, Carnegie made a difference in opening up pathways to universities. But the Carnegie Trust records make it clear that the main beneficiaries were the offspring of the lower middle class and the upper working class. Stories of poor working class rural lads equipped only with a formidable intellect and with a sack of oatmeal heading to university in Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Glasgow are mostly that: rather isolated stories. They have created a mythology.


Professor Sir Tom Devine has said about this:

There were enough real examples, though untypical, to give credibility to the myth, especially when Carnegie grants for university study were established from the early twentieth century.[20]

In summary
The development of widespread and what was eventually free public sector secondary education in Scotland was well ahead of what happened in England. Perversely it was less contentious and happened faster in the then Govan Parish than in central Glasgow or in Edinburgh.
 The Scottish university system expanded in the period 1895 to 1913 having been largely static for years before that. The initiation of female graduation from 1892 and the foundation of the Carnegie Trust for the Universities of Scotland in 1901 played a large part in the expansion.
But, prior to these two developments, for the second half of the 19th century, the pupil teacher system in elementary schools, the associated income stream for the pupil teachers  and the “Queen’s scholarships” which sent the best of the pupil teachers for college training provided an important route to teacher qualification. Increasingly it was used by women: indeed, until the 1890s, it was their only route to a higher education qualification.
The distinguished RB Haldane wrote in 1917:

In Scotland the Education Act passed still more recently in 1908 has carried the process a stage further, with the result that instruction of a secondary type is more widely provided than it is south of the Tweed.[21]

Some of the statistics in the 1917 Haldane chapter are illuminating. In England, 39% of 13-16 yr-olds got no education. The comparable figure in Scotland was 28%. The university participation rate of 16-25 yr-olds in England was 3 per 1000; in Scotland it was almost 10 per 1000.

The key differences between Scotland and England in fact long predated the 1908 Act to which Haldane refers. As we have seen the development of Board-provided secondary education was well in flow in by the 1880s in Govan. In England such action  in London was deemed illegal by the Cockerton judgment[22] until an Education Act of 1902 enabled new education authorities both to establish their own secondary schools and to provide funds to existing endowed schools. The English solution was similar to the Scottish one, but years later.

Some issues of contemporary relevance
In the late 19th/early 20th century, as now, the extent to which education was or is a route to social mobility is problematic. For some it was and is; for others it was and is more a confirmation of an upward mobility which an earlier generation of a family had already managed :“elite recruitment” in Anderson’s words of the 1980s; the “glass floor” in words of the 2010s[23], sometimes through educational mechanisms but often through other means e.g. mercantile success.  We can illustrate these tricky concepts historically by the difference between two British prime ministers.
 J Ramsay Macdonald came from a very poor background in a single parent family and was educated in an elementary school in Lossiemouth. There he distinguished himself academically in a way that eventually led to No 10 Downing St. His social mobility was (largely) educationally powered and in his own generation.
Harold Macmillan had a crofter great grandfather of poor Arran origins whose son founded the great publishing house of Macmillans[24]. Harold was educated at Eton and Cambridge; and married a daughter of the Duke of Devonshire.  The decisive upward social mobility of the Arran crofting family was achieved by his grandfather and Harold's education and subsequent career was but confirmation of that. That is the "glass floor" idea.
Incidentally Ramsay Macdonald was intensely ashamed of his starting point in life and sought to conceal it. Harold Macmillan in a quite different way was equally deceitful. When it suited him, he boasted of having come from a poor crofting family.
‘Rab’ Butler allegedly said in 1975:-
How was Harold Macmillan when you met him? Was he the Duke’s son-in-law or the crofter’s great grand-son?[25]


By 1905 some sons and indeed by then some daughters of crofters, labourers, fishermen and shoemakers had found sources of support to aid their educational advancement. But we should be careful about exaggeration: the commonest beneficiaries, as we have already noted, appear to have been the children of the skilled working class and of the lower middle class. [26]
The expansion of free secondary education and of the provision of secondary school and university bursaries certainly benefitted boys and girls of working class origins in the early years of the 20th century in absolute terms i.e. numbers rose. However, in relative terms, the numbers of boys and girls of middle class origins who benefitted rose equally quickly. And that pattern has prevailed right through into the 21st century; and remains a current topic of debate.



Select Bibliography


Anderson RD 1983 Education & Opportunity in Victorian Scotland Edinburgh

Bone TR 1968  School Inspection in Scotland 1840-1966 Edinburgh

Cruickshank M 1970 History of the Training of Teachers in Scotland  London

Devine TM 2012 The Scottish Nation: A Modern History    London






(Iain Smith is a part-time writer and speaker who at one time worked in teacher education. He welcomes feedback via e-mail   -    smithiain00@gmail.com)





[1] p128 RD Anderson 1983 Education & Opportunity in Victorian Scotland Edinburgh
[2] Five, if one includes University College, Dundee from the end of the 19th century.
[3] Confusingly for us, it was often called “higher” education until well into the 20th century.
[4] Chapter 6 RD Anderson 1983 Education & Opportunity in Victorian Scotland Edinburgh
[5] p123 TR Bone 1968 School Inspection in Scotland 1840-1966 Edinburgh.  Professor Bone points to a third category i.e. pre-existing higher schools (e.g. the High School of Glasgow and Paisley Grammar School) which had come under Board control after 1872.
[6] p118 M Cruickshank   1970 History of the Training of Teachers in Scotland London
[7] We have seen both terms used, apparently synonymously, in school logs and in census data of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
[8] p135 M Cruickshank   1970 History of the Training of Teachers in Scotland London
[9] p138 M Cruickshank 1970 History of the Training of Teachers in Scotland Edinburgh.
[10] p211 RD Anderson 2008 in TGK Bryce and WM Humes  (Eds) Scottish Education 3rd Edition Edinburgh
[11] p164  T Dobie  in TR Bone (Ed) 1967  Studies in Scottish Education 1872-1939 Edinburgh
[12] An excellent, if very dense, discussion of these issues can be found in the definitive RD Anderson 1983 Education & Opportunity in Victorian Scotland Edinburgh
[13] The then Govan Parish School Board covered areas such as Partick and Hillhead which are now simply West end parts of the city of Glasgow.
[14]p 124 TR Bone 1968 School Inspection in Scotland 1840-1966 Edinburgh
[15] p 156  T Dobie in  in TR Bone (Ed) 1967  Studies in Scottish Education 1872-1939 Edinburgh
[16] pp 86, 100 N Haynes 2013 Building Knowledge: An architectural history of the University of Glasgow Edinburgh & Glasgow
[18] p288 RD Anderson 1983 Education & Opportunity in Victorian Scotland Edinburgh
[19] p132 RD Anderson et al 2003 The University of Edinburgh : An illustrated history Edinburgh
[20] Personal communication 2016
[21] p80  R Haldane  ‘National Education’, Chapter V in Lord Cromer et al 1917 After War Problems London
[22] RS Betts 1992 ‘In Limbo: Edward Hance and the Cockerton Judgement 1901’  Journal of Educational Administration and History 24:1
[24] p10 DR Thorpe 2010 Supermac: The life of Harold Macmillan London
[25] p9 DR Thorpe 2010 Supermac: The life of Harold Macmillan London
[26] The definitive work on this, as we have noted earlier,  is RD Anderson 1983  Education & Opportunity in Victorian Scotland Edinburgh

Wednesday, 13 May 2015

Visiting the Island of Lewis: a Hebridean oddysey


A Lewis Odyssey


 

Iain Smith, Sam Tullis & Robert Locke
 
[Background note : Lewis and Harris is an island of the Outer Hebrides in the Atlantic Ocean. It has been part of Scotland for much of the last 900 years.]
 
 
 
 
Saturday 25 April 2015

Drive Glasgow to Ullapool. Snow shower at Aviemore. We board the new Loch Seaforth ferry ; and battle across the Minch in a heavy swell for some two hours or more.

Sunday 26 April

The morning dawns - with snow falling outside as we tuck into a good hotel breakfast. Fortified, we set out for a walk.


Sunday walkers

Our walk takes us through the town and across Glen river into the Castle Grounds

 

 (look carefully) a very disconsolate heron


Despite the snow showers, there is a good view from the Castle Grounds of Stornoway harbour.



Stornoway Harbour from Castle grounds

The castle has a controversial past: built about 1847 or so by Sir James Matheson, then the biggest and most notorious drug-dealer in the world. A man who makes the drug dealers of modern Scotland or Mexico look small time.


--------------------------------------
 
 
 

Muriel Mackenzie is a lady who has chosen to be a missionary teacher in the land of her forebears: previously she taught in Glasgow with my two pals. She takes my pals for lunch, while I visit my brother's house and collect a Merc to use for later travel.

Then Muriel drives my pals and me to her ancestral heartland: Uig.


An Uig Beach; near Timsgarry

She shows us the remains of her grandmother's house: what is left of a traditional 2-roomed straw-thatched dry-stone "black house”.
Muriel at Granny's House

And we climb to the top of a hill to look both south-east into Harris  and west towards Aird Uig. It is cold, and plenty snow lies on the hills. But the snow showers have died out.
 

Looking South- East: Harris hills
 
Looking West : Aird Uig
 
 
Monday 27 April

We drive 30 miles north of Stornoway to the very tip of the island. First we walk on the machair land and the spectacular beach at Europie. (Not far away, as a result of the sands, there are well-drained, high-lime, low-acid - and therefore high-yield-  crofts.) The weather is kind; and we play around on the dunes and on the beach, just as one of us was wont to do in that very place some 60 years ago. 


Two little boys at Europie


Big boy on Europie beach



Then we visit the Butt of Lewis lighthouse and view with awe the cliffs and seas. The lighthouse, inevitably, is a Stevenson construction; and it is thought that, as a child, RLS may have visited it.




-------------------------------------------
 
Then the short drive to Port of Ness, its history now well-documented by Comunn Eachdraidh Nis or the visitor. And here lived and worked John F Macleod, builder of the "sgoth" boats and, on 1 January 1919, the hero of the Iolaire disaster.



Port of Ness Harbour

 





Port of Ness acquired a pier about 1835 : the number of  boats fishing from there quickly climbed from five to thirty. By about 1890-1914, life for some in Ness was quite good: fishing (mostly cod and ling) was plentiful and lucrative. An information board of Comunn Eachdraidh Nis at Port tells us that that a ling would sell for one shilling at a time when an average daily wage was three shillings.


 But there was a cloud in the generally sunny skies. “high-tech” boats i.e. steam-powered drifters, mostly not locally owned, came to dominate the fishing: the Ness “sgoth” was in essence obsolete very early in 20th century. By 1922, things had become very grim. The privations of 1923, notably in Ness, are well recorded by Roger Hutchison and Jim Hunter.  They were probably a major contributor to emigration, notably on the Metagama (1923) and the Marloch (1924).

---------------------------------------------


We drive down the west coast, taking in the community centre (Comunn Eachdraidh Nis) at Cross : cake and coffee; an impressive World War I display; and school archives from the 1940s and 1950s, where I quickly find photographs of my father, of my middle brother, of me and of some well-remembered teachers.
 

On to Bragar, my father's ancestral village; and where he and others of my family are buried.

 

 



Bragar: l to r - Grandfather; Grandmother; oldest Uncle; (then) Father, Mother

In Bragar we also visit Jewel, the younger of my only two surviving aunts. We have a great time with her.  Jewel has just invested in an I-Pad.


The weather has turned foul.



----------------------------------------


At Garenin, there are well-preserved and restored  traditional 2-roomed straw-thatched dry-stone "black house”. Only after the 1886 Act gave security of tenure to crofters did it make much sense to invest in home improvements; and it took over half a century for the larger and healthier mortared-walled and slate-roofed “white houses” to become common and to acquire electricity and running water. The “black houses” at Garenin were inhabited into the 1970s.


Above and below: Wet afternoon at Garenin



Inside Garenin Black house



Harris Tweed weaving: Garenin


-------------------------------------------
 

We visit the  ancient Callanish stones and the excellent modern visitors centre associated with them.
 

 
 
 

Back in Stornoway, we visit An Lainntair  (Stornoway cultural centre) if only to watch the shipping in the harbour; and have an excellent curry back in our hotel.


Tuesday 28 April



We drive to Holm


Iolaire Memorial, Holm

 
Here died over 200 people on 1 January 1919, the majority of them Hebridean sailors returning from naval war service. One of them was my grand-uncle John.
 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
We travel a few miles from Holm towards the Eye peninsula, the district also known as Point. Much of Point consists of relatively recent settlements, but Aignish the first village is different, largely because of its fertile machair lands. In particular it has an ancient graveyard and chapel, the latter now in the process of being restored:



 Eaglais Na H-Aoidhe





 




We visit a friend of mine mid-morning for tea/coffee and biscuits. Given that she is 96 years old, I feel obligated to help in this process. She says “Iain, you are much improved.”

As with Port of Ness the late 19th century was a time of considerable buoyancy in the fishing industry in Point. We visit the old Knock school, set between Aignish and Swordale and now an interesting and lively community centre. Here studied three of my grand uncles, who became fishermen, a grand uncle who became a missionary in Africa and my maternal grandmother.




John Munro (“Iain Beag”) son of a fisherman was born in 1889 in Swordale and raised in Aignish. He also was educated in Knock School; went to the Nicolson Institute where he was dux in 1911; and was killed in France in 1918. He wrote about the Lewisian gneiss:-

What wonder tho’ thy hills be weather worn,

And surface bare of blooming trees, until

Th’ unfeeling, thoughtless ever, call thee bleak?

Know they the sorrows that have o’er thee passed?

The scars thou bear’st to show how thou has felt

The grind of grating ice, ton upon ton

And oceans broad, that capped the long gone world?
 
 
 
 

We have lunch in Aignish with my cousin and co-author Murdo, who talks with enthusiasm about his sheep. He also has insights into the deep divide in the crofting community on the merits and demerits of wind turbines (of which we have seen many in the last three days).
 


 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

We go to Lews Castle College to be given a guided tour by my cousin Donnie

Cousin Donnie and colleague
Copyright : Lews Castle College

    
   I once made a speech in this place:-
Old codger makes a speech: August 2013
Copyright : Lews Castle College


"But let me turn for the moment to the foundation of Lews Castle College. Four people met in a room in Stornoway in 1950. They had a dilemma that most of us will never face.

They were part-owners of a castle; and they were unsure what do with their castle.

These 4 people in 1950 eventually reached a conclusion:  'Let us make this castle a place of learning.' And that is how Lews Castle College UHI began. Wise people they were. And their decision was a significant one. Out of a building created from infamy, they created an institution for good."



Wednesday 29th

It is wet and bleak. Ian Minty takes us for a tour. The Shoe Burn , he tells us, was called that because it was where rural visitors to Stornoway paused to wash their feet and put on shoes.




We repair to the hotel, have coffee and cake; and I monitor the harbour for the arrival of the ferry:-
Loch Seaforth  and Stornoway harbour



At 1400 hrs we set sail for Ullapool.


A day later I write to the hotel on Facebook:  "Three of us stayed with you for 4 nights 25-28 April. We enjoyed the experience!"



IS
13 May 2015